|
When I tell people I put mushrooms in my soap, I usually get one of two reactions: fascination or confusion. "But... why mushrooms?" Here's the thing: mushrooms have been used in traditional medicine for thousands of years, particularly in Asian healing practices. These aren't the button mushrooms you toss in your pasta—we're talking about medicinal fungi packed with compounds that have remarkable benefits for skin health. After my recent post about extracting mushroom magic for Phat Sudz, many of you asked which mushrooms do what, and more importantly, which soap is right for your skin concerns. Consider this your personal guide to my mushroom medicine cabinet. Why Mushrooms Belong in SkincareBefore we dive into specific varieties, let's talk about what makes medicinal mushrooms so powerful for your skin. Mushrooms are loaded with beta-glucans—complex sugars that support your skin's natural barrier function and help it retain moisture. They're rich in antioxidants like ergothioneine and selenium, which fight free radical damage and environmental stressors. Many varieties have natural anti-inflammatory properties, making them ideal for sensitive or reactive skin. And here's what really matters: these aren't trendy ingredients that sound good on a label but do little in practice. The compounds in medicinal mushrooms are bioactive, meaning they interact with your skin cells in measurable, beneficial ways. That's why I go through the dual extraction process I shared in my last post. Proper extraction unlocks these compounds so they can actually work on your skin, rather than just sitting there looking pretty in the ingredient list. Reishi: The Skin SootherBest for: Sensitive skin, redness, inflammation, mature skin Often called the "mushroom of immortality," Reishi (Ganoderma lucidum) has been revered in Chinese medicine for over 2,000 years. For skin, it's my go-to calming ingredient. Reishi contains triterpenes that help reduce inflammation and calm irritated skin. If you struggle with redness, sensitivity, or conditions like rosacea or eczema, Reishi can help soothe and balance your complexion. But that's not all. Reishi is also rich in polysaccharides that deeply hydrate skin and beta-glucans that strengthen your skin's natural moisture barrier. For mature skin, Reishi's antioxidants help protect against environmental damage while supporting skin elasticity. The extract has a warm, earthy quality that grounds the scent profile of any soap it's in. When you lather up with a Reishi soap, you're getting gentle cleansing with serious calming benefits. Chaga: The Antioxidant PowerhouseBest for: Anti-aging concerns, dull skin, environmental protection, combination skin Chaga (Inonotus obliquus) grows on birch trees in cold climates and looks more like burnt charcoal than a mushroom. But don't let its appearance fool you—this fungus is one of the most potent sources of antioxidants on the planet. With an ORAC value (that's a measure of antioxidant capacity) that rivals or exceeds many "superfoods," Chaga is exceptional at neutralizing free radicals. Translation: it helps protect your skin from pollution, UV damage, and the oxidative stress that accelerates aging. Chaga is particularly high in melanin, which gives it protective properties for skin. It's also rich in betulinic acid, derived from the birch trees it grows on, which has been studied for its skin-supporting properties. I love Chaga for people who live in urban environments or spend time outdoors. It's like giving your skin a shield against daily environmental stressors while delivering that antioxidant boost that keeps skin looking bright and healthy. The extract creates a rich, deep brown color in soap and has a subtle, almost woody character that pairs beautifully with both earthy and fresh scent profiles. Tremella: The Hydration HeroBest for: Dry skin, dehydration, plumping, anti-aging Tremella (Tremella fuciformis), also known as snow mushroom or silver ear mushroom, is having a major moment in skincare—and for good reason. This delicate, translucent fungus is nature's answer to hyaluronic acid. Here's what makes Tremella extraordinary: its particles are smaller than hyaluronic acid molecules, which means they can penetrate skin more effectively. Tremella can hold up to 500 times its weight in water, making it an incredibly powerful humectant that draws moisture into your skin and holds it there. Beyond hydration, Tremella is rich in polysaccharides that help plump the appearance of fine lines and support skin elasticity. It's been used in traditional Chinese medicine for centuries, prized for promoting a youthful, dewy complexion. If your skin is dry, dehydrated, or showing signs of aging, Tremella is like giving your skin a tall glass of water. It creates that coveted "glass skin" effect—smooth, luminous, and deeply hydrated. Even in a rinse-off product like soap, Tremella leaves behind a subtle layer of moisture-attracting benefits that your skin will thank you for. Lion's Mane: The Texture TransformerBest for: Improving skin texture, fine lines, wound healing support Lion's Mane (Hericium erinaceus) looks like something out of a fantasy forest—a cascading white pom-pom that's as beautiful as it is beneficial. While it's famous for cognitive support when taken internally, topically it's a texture game-changer. Lion's Mane contains compounds that support skin regeneration and repair. It's been traditionally used to support wound healing, and in skincare, this translates to helping improve overall skin texture and smoothness. The antioxidants in Lion's Mane help protect skin cells, while its anti-inflammatory properties make it suitable even for sensitive skin. If you're dealing with rough patches, uneven texture, or want to support your skin's natural renewal process, Lion's Mane delivers. Cordyceps: The Energizing RevitalizerBest for: Tired-looking skin, improving circulation, maintaining skin vitality Cordyceps is unique among medicinal mushrooms—it's technically a parasitic fungus, but don't let that weird you out. For skin, it's like an espresso shot of vitality. Cordyceps contains cordycepin and other bioactive compounds that help improve skin's appearance by supporting healthy circulation and oxygenation at the cellular level. This means more vibrant, awakened-looking skin. It's also rich in amino acids and polysaccharides that help maintain skin's moisture levels and elasticity. If your skin looks dull, tired, or lacks that healthy glow, Cordyceps can help revitalize and energize your complexion. Shiitake: The All-Around AllyBest for: Most skin types, general skin health, brightening Yes, the same shiitake you might cook with! But medicinal-grade shiitake extract is far more concentrated than what you'd get from eating these mushrooms. Shiitake (Lentinula edodes) contains kojic acid, a natural compound known for its gentle brightening properties. It's been used traditionally to help with uneven skin tone and to support a more radiant complexion. Rich in selenium, zinc, and B vitamins, shiitake supports overall skin health. It's one of the more versatile mushrooms for skincare—gentle enough for sensitive skin but active enough to deliver visible benefits. How to Choose Your MushroomNow that you know what each mushroom brings to the table, here's how to match them to your skin's needs: If you have sensitive or reactive skin: Start with Reishi. Its calming, anti-inflammatory properties make it ideal for easily irritated skin. If you're concerned about aging or environmental damage: Reach for Chaga. That antioxidant power is exactly what stressed, aging skin needs. If your skin is dry or dehydrated: Tremella is your hydration hero, drawing moisture in and holding it there. If your skin looks dull or uneven: Shiitake's brightening properties can help create a more radiant complexion. If texture is your main concern: Lion's Mane helps smooth and refine. If your skin just looks tired and needs a boost: Cordyceps brings that revitalizing energy. The beautiful thing about mushroom-infused soap is that you're not choosing between cleansing and caring for your skin. Every wash becomes an opportunity to deliver these beneficial compounds while you cleanse. Combining Mushroom PowerWhile each mushroom has its specialty, my soap formulations use all six extracts together to create synergistic benefits. Reishi and Chaga work together to offer both calming and protective properties. Tremella and Lion's Mane combine beautifully for hydration and improved texture. Shiitake and Cordyceps brighten and revitalize. The magic happens when these mushrooms work together—each one supporting and enhancing the others. That's why I use the complete six-mushroom blend in my soaps rather than isolating just one or two. The key is that all these extracts go through that careful dual-extraction process I detailed in my previous post. This ensures you're getting the full spectrum of beneficial compounds, not just one or two isolated elements. Beyond the HypeI'll be honest: mushroom skincare has become trendy lately, and that means a lot of products jumping on the bandwagon without doing the work. Not all mushroom skincare is created equal. Some companies add a token amount of mushroom powder to their products just to put it on the label. Others use inferior extraction methods that don't actually unlock the beneficial compounds. And some use synthetic mushroom derivatives rather than the real thing. When I formulate with mushrooms, I'm using organic, properly extracted mushroom concentrates in amounts that actually make a difference for your skin. It's more expensive and more time-consuming, but it's the only way to honor both the mushrooms and the people using my soaps. Your Invitation to ExploreIf you've never tried mushroom-infused skincare, I invite you to start. Pay attention to how your skin feels after a few weeks of use. Notice if that redness calms, if your texture smooths, if your complexion looks brighter. These aren't overnight miracle workers—they're plant allies that support your skin's natural health over time. But that patient, consistent care? That's where real transformation happens. Next time you're choosing a soap, consider not just the scent but what's working beneath the surface. Your skin deserves more than just cleansing. It deserves the concentrated wisdom of these incredible fungi, properly extracted and lovingly formulated into every bar. Ready to find your perfect mushroom match? Explore the Phat Sudz collection and discover which medicinal mushrooms are waiting to transform your skincare routine. Have you tried mushroom skincare before? What's your biggest skin concern? Drop a comment below—I'd love to help you find your perfect fungal friend!
0 Comments
When you lather up with a bar of Phat Sudz soap, you're experiencing something most commercial soaps can't offer: the concentrated power of organic mushroom extracts. But getting from whole mushrooms to those gorgeous liquid extracts in our soaps takes time, patience, and a deep respect for the process. Why We Extract Our Own MushroomsAt Phat Sudz, we don't just toss dried mushrooms into our soap pots and call it a day. Mushrooms have incredibly tough cell walls made of chitin—the same substance that makes up insect exoskeletons. To unlock the skin-loving antioxidants, minerals, and beneficial compounds trapped inside, we need to extract them properly. The three jars pictured show different mushroom extracts at various stages, each destined to become part of our handmade, organic soaps. The rich brown extracts, the golden amber liquid, and the deep, dark infusions all represent hours of careful work—and the potent botanicals your skin will thank you for. The Dual Extraction MethodCreating quality mushroom extracts requires a two-part process: The Water Stage involves simmering organic mushrooms in hot water to capture water-soluble compounds like polysaccharides and beta-glucans—the compounds known for their hydrating and skin-barrier-supporting properties. This typically creates the lighter, golden-hued extracts. The Oil Stage follows, where we infuse the mushroom material into organic oils to pull out fat-soluble compounds and nutrients that water can't capture. This creates the darker, richer-colored extracts you see. Oil infusions are perfect for soap-making since our soaps are oil-based products—the mushroom compounds integrate seamlessly into every bar. When we combine both extractions, we get a full-spectrum blend that contains the complete range of beneficial compounds each mushroom has to offer. From Mason Jar to Soap BarOnce our extracts are ready, they're incorporated into our small-batch soap recipes alongside certified organic oils. These mushroom extracts infuse each bar with antioxidant protection, natural anti-inflammatory properties, and the deep nourishment that makes Phat Sudz soaps truly special. The varying colors you see in our extracts tell the story of different mushroom varieties—each bringing its own unique profile to support healthy, radiant skin. Whether it's the calming properties of Reishi, the revitalizing compounds in Chaga, or the skin-brightening benefits of Shiitake, every extract is crafted with intention. Slow, Intentional, and Worth ItThis extraction process isn't quick, and it isn't cheap. But at Phat Sudz, we believe luxury comes from respecting the ingredients and the process. When you use our soaps, you're getting mushroom extracts in their most potent, bioavailable form—free from pesticides, chemicals, and shortcuts. From forest to mason jar to soap bar, every step is designed to bring the ancient wisdom of mushrooms into your modern skincare ritual. Ready to experience the difference of truly extracted mushroom skincare? Explore Our Handmade Soap Collection There's something almost magical about handmade soap. You start with oils and lye—ingredients that on their own you'd never want to put on your skin—and through a beautiful chemical transformation, you end up with something that cleanses, nourishes, and feels luxurious. But what actually happens during that transformation? And why does it matter for your skin? Let me pull back the curtain on the science of soapmaking, without getting so technical that your eyes glaze over. Understanding this process might just change how you think about what you're putting on your skin every day. What Is Saponification, Really?Saponification is the chemical reaction that turns oils and lye into soap. It's not just mixing ingredients together—it's a complete transformation at the molecular level. Here's what happens: when oils or fats meet an alkali (that's lye—sodium hydroxide for bar soap), they break down and recombine into two entirely new substances: soap and glycerin. The scientific term is a chemical reaction, and it's irreversible. Once saponification happens, you can't separate the ingredients back into their original forms. Think of it like baking a cake. You can't un-bake a cake back into flour, eggs, and sugar. Similarly, properly made soap contains no lye because the lye has been completely transformed through the chemical reaction. The Cold Process Method: Patience Creates Better SoapThere are several ways to make soap, but cold process soapmaking is the method I use, and it's beloved by artisan soapmakers for good reason. The Process: It starts with carefully measuring oils and butters—things like olive oil, coconut oil, shea butter—and melting them together if needed. Separately, I mix lye with water (or sometimes milk, aloe juice, or other liquids). This creates an exothermic reaction, meaning it generates heat and gets quite hot. When both the oils and lye solution reach the right temperature, I combine them. Using a stick blender, I mix until the mixture reaches "trace"—that's the point where it thickens to about the consistency of thin pudding and leaves a trail when you drizzle it across the surface. This is where the artistry happens. At trace, I add fragrance oils or essential oils, colorants, exfoliants, or other beneficial ingredients. Then I pour the mixture into molds. The Waiting Game: Here's where cold process differs dramatically from commercial soap production. After pouring, the soap sits in the mold for 24-48 hours while saponification continues. The soap generates its own heat during this time—sometimes you can actually feel the warmth radiating from the molds. Once firm enough, I unmold and cut the soap into bars. But they're not ready to use yet. Not even close. Cold process soap needs to cure for 4-6 weeks. During this time, excess water evaporates, the soap hardens, and the pH continues to mellow. This patience creates a longer-lasting, milder bar that's better for your skin. The Glycerin Difference: What Commercial Soap Doesn't Want You to KnowRemember how I mentioned that saponification creates two things—soap and glycerin? This is where handmade soap gets really interesting. Glycerin is a humectant, meaning it attracts moisture to your skin. It's a prized ingredient in skincare products, so valuable that most commercial soap manufacturers actually remove the glycerin from their soap and sell it separately to cosmetics companies. That's why commercial "soap" often isn't legally soap at all—it's a synthetic detergent bar. Every bar of handmade cold process soap contains all of its natural glycerin, created right there during saponification. This is why handmade soap feels different on your skin. It cleanses without that tight, stripped feeling because the glycerin is right there, helping your skin retain moisture. Why "Superfatting" Means Better SkinHere's another secret of quality handmade soap: superfatting. When I formulate a recipe, I intentionally use slightly more oils than the amount of lye can fully convert to soap. This is called superfatting or lye discount. Typically, I superfat between 5-8%. What this means for your skin: there are extra nourishing oils left in the finished soap that didn't go through saponification. These oils remain as conditioning agents, adding extra moisturizing properties to the bar. This is a luxury commercial soap producers can't afford—literally. Mass production requires every bar to be identical, and leaving extra oils creates a product that doesn't ship well, doesn't last as long on store shelves, and cuts into profit margins. But for your skin? It's the difference between cleansing and actually caring for your skin while you cleanse. The Art of Formulation: Why Every Oil MattersNot all oils create the same soap. Each oil brings different properties to the final bar, which is why I've chosen the specific combination I use in my soaps: Coconut oil creates fluffy lather and hardness, giving that satisfying clean feeling. It's powerful, so I balance it carefully—too much can be drying, but the right amount makes a bar that cleanses beautifully. Hemp oil is rich in omega fatty acids and deeply nourishing. It creates a gentle, conditioning bar that's especially wonderful for sensitive or dry skin. Avocado oil adds luxurious creaminess and skin-loving vitamins. It makes a mild, moisturizing soap that feels silky on your skin. Castor oil is my secret weapon for lather—it boosts those bubbles and draws moisture to your skin while you cleanse. Creating a good soap recipe is about balance—combining these oils in just the right ratios to create the properties you want. It's chemistry, yes, but it's also experience and care. I'll be honest: finding my perfect recipe took dozens of test batches. I'd get the lather just right, but the bar would be too soft. Then I'd adjust for hardness and lose that creamy feel I wanted. Getting the coconut oil percentage right was crucial—enough for great cleansing and lather, but not so much that it dried out skin. Each small tweak meant waiting another 4-6 weeks to see how the cured bar actually performed. It was a process of patience, testing, adjusting, and testing again. But that's what separates a good soap from a great one—the willingness to keep refining until every quality comes together in one perfect bar. Time, Temperature, and TransformationOne thing that surprises people about cold process soapmaking: it's not actually cold. The lye solution gets quite hot—often 180-200°F when first mixed. The oils are usually warmed to around 90-110°F. And when they combine, the saponification reaction generates even more heat. The "cold" in cold process refers to the fact that we're not adding external heat to accelerate saponification, unlike hot process soap which is cooked. By working at lower temperatures and allowing the reaction to proceed naturally, we can include heat-sensitive ingredients and create more complex designs. The slow cure time also allows the pH to naturally lower to a skin-friendly level. Fresh soap can have a pH around 11-12, but after curing properly, it settles into the 9-10 range—high enough to cleanse effectively but gentle enough for regular use. Why This Science Matters for Your SkinUnderstanding saponification helps explain why handmade soap is genuinely different from commercial alternatives: It retains natural glycerin that keeps your skin moisturized rather than stripped. It's superfatted with extra conditioning oils that care for your skin. It's carefully formulated with specific oils chosen for their skin-loving properties. It's given time to cure properly, creating a milder, longer-lasting product. It's made in small batches where quality can be controlled and monitored. When you choose handmade cold process soap, you're not just buying a cleansing product. You're choosing a method that has been refined over centuries, that prioritizes skin health over profit margins, and that treats the daily act of cleansing as something worth doing thoughtfully. The Beauty of TransformationWhat I love most about saponification is that it's a complete transformation. The caustic lye? Gone, transformed into something beneficial. The liquid oils? Solidified into a bar that can last for weeks. Simple ingredients become something greater than the sum of their parts. Every time I unmold a fresh batch of soap, I'm witnessing chemistry in action. And every time you use a bar of properly made handmade soap, you're experiencing the difference that real saponification—complete with all its natural glycerin and conditioning oils—makes for your skin. That's not marketing. That's just science. Beautiful, skin-loving science. Have questions about the soapmaking process or what goes into your favorite bars? Drop a comment below—I love talking about the chemistry behind the suds! |
AuthorI'm Cassi, and I craft small-batch soaps with care and creativity. Based in beautiful Northern California, I love bringing beautiful scents and skin-loving ingredients together in every bar.. Archives
March 2026
Categories
All
"Stay grounded and keep growing"
"Just here for the spores"
"I like big caps and I cannot lie"
"Socially awk-spore-d"
"I'm not like other spores"
"Thriving in the dark"
|